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Guide to surfing

05/13/2012 in news

I have put together my guide for surfing book. A lot of the book info can be found on this website but I have compiled it into a book for anyone who wishes to purchase it. It is $4.99 on amazon for a hard copy and $0.99 on kindle.

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Andy Irons Autopsy Report

06/09/2011 in news

Conflicting reports are currently coming in concerning the cause of death in the passing of Andy Irons. According to an official autopsy report obtained by the New York Times, the primary cause of Irons’ death was cardiac arrest, related to coronary artery disease. The secondary cause of death, according to the Times, was acute mixed drug ingestion. The Tarrant County Medical Examiners office prepared the autopsy, which will not be made public until June 20. A press release, prepared by the Irons family, has also circulated. In the release, a medical examiner who consulted with the family comes to a different conclusion on the matter of whether drugs contributed to Irons’ death. “[Drug ingestion was] not the cause of death and did not contribute to the death,” said forensic pathologist Dr. Vincent Di Maio in the Irons family’s statement. “The Manner of Death is in fact labeled Natural.”

Read both the Times story and the press release:: http://www.surfermag.com/features/andy-irons-autopsy-results-released/

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Surfer and Surfing Mag for $12

06/01/2011 in news

A pretty good deal so I thought I would post for everyone. I just renewed my subscriptions. For $12 and that includes both, its well worth the money.

https://www.circsource.com/store/Subscribe.html?magazineId=123&sourceCode=I9ABNN

FYI – this is link is from surfermag’s website so its not some weird website.

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Weekly Surf Reports

03/01/2011 in news

Its March, so I am going to be starting the weekly surf reports again. If you want to sign up to get them via your phone or email, please do so. Otherwise, check here and our forum for the updates as well.

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Andy Irons: R.I.P

11/03/2010 in news

Source: http://www.staradvertiser.com/news/breaking/Surfing_legend_Andy_Irons_dies_.html

Three-time world surfing champion Andy Irons of Kauai died today in a hotel room in Texas, family and friends confirmed.

His death is being investigated as a possible overdose of methadone, according to the Tarrant County Medical Examiner’s Office. An autopsy is scheduled for tomorrow but the exact cause of death may require a toxicology test, which could take 60 to 90 days to complete.
Irons, 32, was on his way home after withdrawing from a surf contest in Puerto Rico. He was found in bed by staff at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at the Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport when he failed to respond to a wake-up call, the medical examiner’s office said. Emergency personnel pronounced him dead at 9:46 a.m.
There were no signs of trauma. But methadone was found inside a container of a prescription drug called zolpidem, the medical examiner said. Zolpidem is commonly used for insomnia, while methadone is a powerful controlled substance used for pain. The container, as well as numerous other medications, was found on a nightstand, the medical examiner said.
Irons had competed briefly this past weekend at an Association of Surfing Professionals World Tour contest in Puerto Rico where his family said today that he was suffering from dengue fever.
Dengue fever is a viral illness transmitted by mosquitoes in tropical climates. Its symptom include intense headaches and joint pain.
Irons had competed in the first round of the Rip Curl Pro Search, but was too sick to continue and withdrew before the second round, his family said.
Randy Rarick, executive director of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing on Oahu’s North Shore, said Irons died during a layover in Texas.
“Because he couldn’t compete, because he was too sick, he decided to fly home,” he said. “He checked into a hotel and that’s where they found him.”
Irons leaves behind a wife, Lyndie, who is seven-months pregnant with the couple’s first child.
Irons was expected to compete in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing this month, Rarick said. He had returned to the contest circuit this year after taking a break last season. He was not in contention for the title, but had won a contest earlier this year in Tahiti.
“We were all looking forward to having him here,” Rarick said. “Andy Irons was very passionate about his competitive drive and that’s what really allowed him to win world championships.”
Irons won three consecutive world titles, from 2002 to 2004, and had 19 victories on the professional tour. He also won the Quiksilver Pro France championships from 2003 to 2005 and the Rip Curl Pro Search titles in 2006 and 2007.
He withdrew from the full ASP World Tour in 2009 and was granted a wild-card entry to tour events this season, winning the Billabong Pro Tahiti in August.
Irons was raised in Hanalei, Kauai, where he began his days surfing the breaks around the island with his younger brother, Bruce, who is also a professional surfer.
According to the Centers for Disease Control, dengue fever is the most common cause of fever in travelers returning from the Caribbean, Central America, and South Central Asia. The CDC posted an “outbreak notice” about the mosquito-born virus in June that included Puerto Rico as one of the countries where cases had occurred. The notice also said there has been a general increase in dengue fever since 2009.
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NJ Surf Reports Mobile App

10/03/2010 in news

Here is a new surf report app for android phones only. It has NJ surf reports only. Please let me know if you have any trouble with it:

http://njsurfingclub.com/NJ_Surf_Report.apk

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Thanks to NJ Surfers

09/01/2010 in news

I received this email from a guy who was saved last weekend by a surfer and he wanted me to share with all of you:

Not sure if this is best place for this or not; but wanted to give the surfering crowd of New Jersey a great big THANK YOU!!! On August 29, a surfer saved my life from a nasty rip current on Island Beach state park. No way I would have survived, and I\’m a pretty strong swimmer. Then he and his buddy went in again and pulled 2 kids out. His name was Jeremy, looked to be in his 20\’s, black hair and slight beard. Thats all I know. Thanked him profusely, but its not enough. How can anything be enough? Anyway, through him, I now realize that there must be tons of unsung heros out there in the surfing world. To all of you: Thank you, and to Jeremy, I owe every day of my life from now on to you; every kids B-day, every laugh, every happy moment, everything. I realize its silly, but I hope that somehow this will get back to him. Thanks, Eric ‘

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Life Rolls On Event

07/13/2010 in news

I am pleased to announce that Life Rolls On Foundation’s award-winning They Will Surf Again event will be taking place for the first time this year in Rockaway, NY. The event will be coming to 90th Street Beach on Saturday, August 28, 2010.

Currently, we are still seeking volunteers for both land and water, along with participants with SCI, for this amazing event!

If you are in the area and want to spend the day with us to “push possibilities,” I encourage you to register at: http://www.liferollson.org/twsasignup

Should you require any additional information, please feel free to contact me at Sarah@liferollson.org or call (310) 807-5488.

Thank you for your continued support of Life Rolls On and I hope you will be able to join us at the beach!

Sincerely,

Sarah Donaldson

Program Manager- They Will Surf Again

Life Rolls On Foundation

400 Corporate Pointe, Suite 525

Culver City, CA 90230

***NOTE: PLEASE UPDATE YOUR ADDRESS BOOK WITH OUR NEW SUITE NUMBER!***

P| 310.807.5488 F| 310.943.1918

E| Sarah@liferollson.org

www.liferollson.org

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Oil spill pic

06/26/2010 in news

check out this pic from surfer mag:

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10 things all surfers should know about surfboard design

06/26/2010 in news

Found this on stabmag: http://www.stabmag.com/jed/stabs-guide-to-surfboard-design-for-dummies/

Stab’s guide to surfboard design for dummies

1. Boards with a straight rocker paddle faster. And, paddling is 50 per cent of the game. If you can’t catch waves, you can’t surf. Even if you’re surfing two-foot windblown peaks with three friends, you still have to compete to get waves. And, you thought it was all about thickness, right? It’s not; it’s how the bottom moves across the water. However…

2. Volume is your friend. You can have a really thick board, but if you put a vee bottom in it rides neutral, whereas a medium-thickness board with concave can ride flat like a plank.

3. Tail shapes don’t matter as much as you think. If the width going into the tail is the same, a square, a squash, a diamond or a swallow is going to behave in a similar way. Round tails and pintails decrease the rail line, so they’re going to hold a little better and shorten a turn radius.

4. I don’t buy into the whole back-foot/front-foot surfer thing. We’re all surfing from the back foot. You’re either a weak back-foot surfer or a strong back-foot surfer. You push hard or you don’t. You’re either Taylor Knox or a flicky little kid.

5. Look at the outline of your board. Straight lines go fast. Curved lines turn. Simple.

6. The straighter the rocker, the further back you need to stand and boards with a continual rocker have a bigger sweet spot. However, and this is a big however, a drivier board will be more forgiving in picking up speed, just less forgiving when you need to turn.

7. Match the curve of the board to the curve of the wave. This is for the average surfer. Everything goes out the window for pros – they can do anything. I travel with a curvy board and a flat board: curvy boards for the Gold Coast and for Sydney shorebreaks. Flatter boards for mushy points or blown out crumblers. On a planky board, it ain’t gonna work when you need to jump to your feet and bottom turn in one quick move. And, when you do get up, all you’re going to do is parallel floaters.

8. There’s a magic number and it’s called your cubic volume. It’s up to us shapers to educate people, and it’s information available, right now, on our shaping machines. Let me explain. One of my team riders, Shea Lopez, was teasing me about how big my boards are. We were down at Lowers, two fat cocktails in hand, and he grabbed my board and said, “Have a fucking look at this boat!” And, I said: “Well, I’m fat, I’m 40, but you know what, fucker? I bet my volume-to-weight ratio is not far from your’s. I’m 30 per cent heavier and have maybe 30 per cent more volume. The difference is, I’m a desk jockey and you’re a professional athlete.” If we know our cubic volumes, all the other dimensions can be left to the shaper. Instead of saying, I ride 6’1”s x 18 5/8” x 2 5/16”, you’d say, I’m a 42, make me a small-wave craft. This does require a degree of trust in your shaper. Which leads me to…

9. There are two types of shapers you can trust. One is the local shaper who knows the conditions and who probably knows how you surf. That’s a certain kind of trust. Then there’s the trust you have for an international shaper. You trust Al Merrick because he consistently makes great boards for great surfers and for the globall market. If you live in Santa Barbara, where Al lives, you get local and international knowledge. If you live on the Gold Coast, you get both: Darren Handley and Jason Stevenson. If you live in Sydney, you get both: James Cheal (Chilli). If you live in San Clemente, you get Timmy Patterson and me. But, if you live in, say, Adelaide, you might have to balance the tradeoff between local and global knowledge.

10. Balance in a surfboard is everything and shapers walk a tightrope every time they build you a custom board. If you want a board with a lot of rocker, your shaper has to build everything around it to balance it out. If one element is extreme, the rest of the board has to act as a counterbalance to neutralize the extreme. Greg Webber was a genius on the wire. Everything is balance.