Guide to surfing
05/13/2012 in news
05/13/2012 in news
06/09/2011 in news
Conflicting reports are currently coming in concerning the cause of death in the passing of Andy Irons. According to an official autopsy report obtained by the New York Times, the primary cause of Irons’ death was cardiac arrest, related to coronary artery disease. The secondary cause of death, according to the Times, was acute mixed drug ingestion. The Tarrant County Medical Examiners office prepared the autopsy, which will not be made public until June 20. A press release, prepared by the Irons family, has also circulated. In the release, a medical examiner who consulted with the family comes to a different conclusion on the matter of whether drugs contributed to Irons’ death. “[Drug ingestion was] not the cause of death and did not contribute to the death,” said forensic pathologist Dr. Vincent Di Maio in the Irons family’s statement. “The Manner of Death is in fact labeled Natural.”
Read both the Times story and the press release:: http://www.surfermag.com/features/andy-irons-autopsy-results-released/
06/01/2011 in news
A pretty good deal so I thought I would post for everyone. I just renewed my subscriptions. For $12 and that includes both, its well worth the money.
https://www.circsource.com/store/Subscribe.html?magazineId=123&sourceCode=I9ABNN
FYI – this is link is from surfermag’s website so its not some weird website.
03/01/2011 in news
Its March, so I am going to be starting the weekly surf reports again. If you want to sign up to get them via your phone or email, please do so. Otherwise, check here and our forum for the updates as well.
11/03/2010 in news
Source: http://www.staradvertiser.com/news/breaking/Surfing_legend_Andy_Irons_dies_.html
Three-time world surfing champion Andy Irons of Kauai died today in a hotel room in Texas, family and friends confirmed.
10/03/2010 in news
Here is a new surf report app for android phones only. It has NJ surf reports only. Please let me know if you have any trouble with it:
http://njsurfingclub.com/NJ_Surf_Report.apk

09/01/2010 in news
I received this email from a guy who was saved last weekend by a surfer and he wanted me to share with all of you:
Not sure if this is best place for this or not; but wanted to give the surfering crowd of New Jersey a great big THANK YOU!!! On August 29, a surfer saved my life from a nasty rip current on Island Beach state park. No way I would have survived, and I\’m a pretty strong swimmer. Then he and his buddy went in again and pulled 2 kids out. His name was Jeremy, looked to be in his 20\’s, black hair and slight beard. Thats all I know. Thanked him profusely, but its not enough. How can anything be enough? Anyway, through him, I now realize that there must be tons of unsung heros out there in the surfing world. To all of you: Thank you, and to Jeremy, I owe every day of my life from now on to you; every kids B-day, every laugh, every happy moment, everything. I realize its silly, but I hope that somehow this will get back to him. Thanks, Eric ‘
07/13/2010 in news
I am pleased to announce that Life Rolls On Foundation’s award-winning They Will Surf Again event will be taking place for the first time this year in Rockaway, NY. The event will be coming to 90th Street Beach on Saturday, August 28, 2010.
Currently, we are still seeking volunteers for both land and water, along with participants with SCI, for this amazing event!
If you are in the area and want to spend the day with us to “push possibilities,” I encourage you to register at: http://www.liferollson.org/twsasignup
Should you require any additional information, please feel free to contact me at Sarah@liferollson.org or call (310) 807-5488.
Thank you for your continued support of Life Rolls On and I hope you will be able to join us at the beach!
Sincerely,
Sarah Donaldson
Program Manager- They Will Surf Again
Life Rolls On Foundation
400 Corporate Pointe, Suite 525
Culver City, CA 90230
***NOTE: PLEASE UPDATE YOUR ADDRESS BOOK WITH OUR NEW SUITE NUMBER!***
P| 310.807.5488 F| 310.943.1918
E| Sarah@liferollson.org
www.liferollson.org
06/26/2010 in news
Found this on stabmag: http://www.stabmag.com/jed/stabs-guide-to-surfboard-design-for-dummies/
Stab’s guide to surfboard design for dummies
1. Boards with a straight rocker paddle faster. And, paddling is 50 per cent of the game. If you can’t catch waves, you can’t surf. Even if you’re surfing two-foot windblown peaks with three friends, you still have to compete to get waves. And, you thought it was all about thickness, right? It’s not; it’s how the bottom moves across the water. However…
2. Volume is your friend. You can have a really thick board, but if you put a vee bottom in it rides neutral, whereas a medium-thickness board with concave can ride flat like a plank.
3. Tail shapes don’t matter as much as you think. If the width going into the tail is the same, a square, a squash, a diamond or a swallow is going to behave in a similar way. Round tails and pintails decrease the rail line, so they’re going to hold a little better and shorten a turn radius.
4. I don’t buy into the whole back-foot/front-foot surfer thing. We’re all surfing from the back foot. You’re either a weak back-foot surfer or a strong back-foot surfer. You push hard or you don’t. You’re either Taylor Knox or a flicky little kid.
5. Look at the outline of your board. Straight lines go fast. Curved lines turn. Simple.
6. The straighter the rocker, the further back you need to stand and boards with a continual rocker have a bigger sweet spot. However, and this is a big however, a drivier board will be more forgiving in picking up speed, just less forgiving when you need to turn.
7. Match the curve of the board to the curve of the wave. This is for the average surfer. Everything goes out the window for pros – they can do anything. I travel with a curvy board and a flat board: curvy boards for the Gold Coast and for Sydney shorebreaks. Flatter boards for mushy points or blown out crumblers. On a planky board, it ain’t gonna work when you need to jump to your feet and bottom turn in one quick move. And, when you do get up, all you’re going to do is parallel floaters.
8. There’s a magic number and it’s called your cubic volume. It’s up to us shapers to educate people, and it’s information available, right now, on our shaping machines. Let me explain. One of my team riders, Shea Lopez, was teasing me about how big my boards are. We were down at Lowers, two fat cocktails in hand, and he grabbed my board and said, “Have a fucking look at this boat!” And, I said: “Well, I’m fat, I’m 40, but you know what, fucker? I bet my volume-to-weight ratio is not far from your’s. I’m 30 per cent heavier and have maybe 30 per cent more volume. The difference is, I’m a desk jockey and you’re a professional athlete.” If we know our cubic volumes, all the other dimensions can be left to the shaper. Instead of saying, I ride 6’1”s x 18 5/8” x 2 5/16”, you’d say, I’m a 42, make me a small-wave craft. This does require a degree of trust in your shaper. Which leads me to…
9. There are two types of shapers you can trust. One is the local shaper who knows the conditions and who probably knows how you surf. That’s a certain kind of trust. Then there’s the trust you have for an international shaper. You trust Al Merrick because he consistently makes great boards for great surfers and for the globall market. If you live in Santa Barbara, where Al lives, you get local and international knowledge. If you live on the Gold Coast, you get both: Darren Handley and Jason Stevenson. If you live in Sydney, you get both: James Cheal (Chilli). If you live in San Clemente, you get Timmy Patterson and me. But, if you live in, say, Adelaide, you might have to balance the tradeoff between local and global knowledge.
10. Balance in a surfboard is everything and shapers walk a tightrope every time they build you a custom board. If you want a board with a lot of rocker, your shaper has to build everything around it to balance it out. If one element is extreme, the rest of the board has to act as a counterbalance to neutralize the extreme. Greg Webber was a genius on the wire. Everything is balance.